To someday climb the most difficult of all of the 14ers in colorado, capitol peak (cp). Capitol peak towers above treeline in the elk mountains of colorado, a crumbling mass of granite, shaped into a rugged pyramid with spiny ridges.
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Check the weather forecast and stay home during inclement weather.
Capitol peak colorado climb. This is the end of easy, trail hiking. Bring the ten essentials and the knowledge/skill to use them. Although the hayden survey named capitol peak, they made no attempt to climb it.
Its infamous knife edge ridge not only inspires climbers with its beauty and exposure but also strikes fear into novice mountaineers. A challenging enough climb in summer, capitol peak is regarded as a true mountaineering conquest in the winter. Capitol peak is rarely climbed in winter since it’s remote, requires a long ski or snowshoe approach, and often has high avalanche danger.
First climbed in 1909 by percy hagerman and harold clark, capitol peak is often revered as the most difficult 14er in colorado. Capitol peak, the 32nd highest mountain in colorado at 14,137 feet, is considered the state’s most difficult 14er to climb. Capitol peak is a 14,130 foot mountain in the elk range of colorado most well known for its difficult and dangerous ridge and knife edge of class 4 hiking.
With an amga trained/certified guide from aspen expeditions, enjoy this. Capitol peak is one of the most challenging fourteeners in colorado, and yields some good technical routes including the northwest ridge. Everything i had read warned how dangerous this mountain is.
Below we will cover each of the trail options, information about camping, roads, trail maps and more to help you stand atop this colorado 14er. These routes have significant rockfall danger due to a great deal of loose rock; Capitol peak carries a mystique among hikers and climbers in colorado.
But honestly, for me, all the other treks and hikes, and even some great climbs were just rehearsals for the real object of my affection and ambition: Capitol peak sits at 14,130 feet, with 5,300 feet of elevation gain from the trailhead over the 17 miles. The elk mountains receive more snow than many of the other mountain ranges in colorado, so the season that capitol can typically be climbed without snow climbing equipment is short.
We made camp (site 7) in plenty of time to set up, filter water, and eat before sunset. This adventure lived up to the hype and well beyond, totally incredible beauty and excitement but, be warned, this mountain is very dangerous. It’s class 3/4 for most of the climb which means it’s going to cross loose rock and require scrambling and minor amounts of rock climbing (which is class 5).
However the rock is substantially more solid than on the nearby maroon bells or pyramid peak. Standing at 14,130', it is one of the most impressive mountains in the elk range with its amazing north face. Capitol peak (14,130 ft) awaits your arrival, at the heart of the elk range.
Dozens have made a winter ascent, but technical gear, chops, and cojones are all a necessity for those seeking the elk range monarch during the colder months. The mountain is dangerous in severe weather since it is difficult to descend. Watch for thunderstorms and lightning.
Capitol peak, like all of colorado’s high mountains, is pounded by heavy thunderstorms accompanied by lightning strikes in july and august. Research your route and bring a compass & topographic map. Ditch trail, with the ditch on the right.
As one member of the survey team, henry gannett, put it: Capitol peak's north face is one of colorado's biggest walls, offering a sheer 1,800 feet of technical rock climbing routes. Near 11,600' and below the lake, turn left on a thinner trail and hike southeast toward the saddle between 13er mt.
Capitol creek valley, capitol peak is white & center left. Current climbing forecast for capitol peak. 360° panorama from the summit of capitol peak.
Powered by the national weather service digital forecast database. There are several places to camp on the right, before the lake.
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